哥特时期的服装风格特征

     哥特时期的服装优雅精致且复杂华丽，由专门的裁缝师缝制。典型的特征是修长苗条，  设讣注重腰部，色彩强调明快。男装不再与女装相似。叼3世纪的女装依旧非常贴体，或宽松 穿着，或系腰带。到叼4世纪，女装的上半部分开始用系带勒紧，领U宽人，并开始采用扣子。  裙子从臀围开始展开，配合很夸张的腰带。女装渐渐上下分开，上衣部分很合体。  “苏尔考 特”(surcoat)是当时很流行的外衣。袖窿开得极低直至腰线，使腰部得以体现。到哥特晚期，  女装轮廓变得非常苗条。紧身的上衣V形领开得很身很低。腰线或腰带上提至胸部。裙子的 后裙裾变得很长。    男装筒形衣开始变窄变短，并在前面开始使用扣子。外衣由以往长及小腿逐渐演变成了长及  臀围的短外衣‘达布里特”(doub，et)。“达布里特’腰部收窄，前面合体，领U用扣子或裁得很低。 前胸和袖子的上半部分充填成型。领子高至下巴。类似披风的外衣‘豪普兰德”(houppelande)，  开始流行。长款或长及膝盖的无袖圆领二L篷‘曼特”(manteau)披在筒形衣的外面。

Gothic style,1250--1500AD

The clothing in Gothic period was graceful and elegant, but also complicated and lavish. It was then made by "garment tailors" Typical characteristics were long, slen- der designs with an emphasis on the waist and bright color. Men's clothing lost its similarity to women's clothing. In the 13th century, the women's cotte was still close fitted and was worn either loose or belted. In the 14th century the top of the dress became tightly laced, with a very wide neckline and button fastenings. The skirt widened from the hips, which were often accentuated belt. The garment was gradually divided into a skirt and top or bodice.  The bodice could then be made very tight-fitting. The surcoat(surcot) was popular as an outer garment. The deeply cut armhole reached the hips and allowed the waist to be visible. In the late Gothic period,the silhouette of the women's dress became very slender. The tight bodice had a very deep pointed neckline. The waist seam and the belt moved up to just the breasts. The train at the back of skirt became very long. The men's tunic became narrow and short and was provided with a fastener at the front. The outer garment which was originally calf length developed into a jacket, the doublet,and only came down to the hips. The doublet was narrow at the waist, tight fitting at the front, buttoned up or deeply cut. The chest section and the upper sleeves were well padded. The collar came up to the chin. The houppelande, a cloak-like outer garment, also became fashionable. The long, or knee length tabard was worn draped loosely back
and front over the tunic.