文艺复兴时期的服装

    “文艺复兴”字面的意思是再生生，即重现希腊罗马时期的文明。但实际上是从小世纪向现代文明的过渡。丰富多彩的服装广泛采用锦缎、花缎及天鹅绒等华贵的面料，并镶嵌人量缎带、滚边、丝带、刺绣及花边等装饰材料。文艺复兴时期女装的主要特点是肩部窄小、腰部紧贴、臀部夸张。与裙子分离的紧身胸衣是当时的一大创新。由此裙子可以在紧束腰线下方的腹部人幅度展开。与外裙在面料和色彩上有着鲜明对比色的里裙带有刺绣宽边或者天鹅绒镶边。里裙下面是裙撑。袖子与袖窿用带子系在一起，因此不同服装的袖子可以互换。到文艺复兴晚期，西班牙风格的服装优雅壮观，但也变得僵硬、不舒适，色彩也变得暗淡。男装外型宽阔以至成箱形，由衬衫、筒形外衣及紧身裤袜构成。肩部、袖子及裤子都加有人工衬垫。
衬衫相当宽松，领U和袖U都有抽褶，并用金线或黑白丝线刺绣抽褶边。服装各个部位都采用切U和分片，以显露㈩里面不同颜色不同面料的宽松衬衣。在文艺复兴早期，领U通常为圆形、V形或方形低领，后期领U升高并用轮状皱领装饰(拉夫领)。拉夫领越来越人、越来越挺，以至最后形成了服装的一个独立部分。



Renaissance style

Renaissance literally means re-birth, a return to the civilizations of Greece and Rome. In fact, it was a transition from the medieval to the modern view of men and the world. The colorful garments made from expensive materials, such as brocade, damask and velvet were richly patterned and lavishly decorated with ribbons, braids, trimmings, embroi- dery and lace. Narrow shoulders, a small tight waist and full hips were the characteristic features of feminine silhouette. An innovation was the corset, separate from the skirt.
The skirt had fullness over the abdomen, below the tight waist. The underskirt was of heavy contrasting fabric and color, either edged with a wide band of embroidery or band of velvet. Under that, several linen petticoats were worn. The sumptuous sleeves were  tied on and were therefore interchangeable.  During late Renaissance, clothing of Spanish style were elegant and showy, and were also stiff, uncomfortable and often in somber color. Masculine effect was broad to square silhouette. Men's wear consisted of
a shirt, doublet and hose. It was artificial, with padded, large shoulders, sleeves and breeches. Voluminous linen shirt was worn next to the skin under the doublet. Collar and cuffs were decorated with smocking and Spanish embroidery. All articles of clothing were slashed and paned, revealing puffs of contrasting fabric and color. The neckline waslow round, V-shape, or square during early Renaissance, and later was shirred up into a higher neckline finishing with a ruff. The ruff grew larger and stiffer and eventually became a separated item of clothing.