能经得住多大诋毁,就能担得起多少赞美。
    粉丝:166 关注:191 文章:125

    Neoclassicism style/新古典主义风格的服装(1789——1830)

    6205 1 0 2007-12-30 22:30:16

    新古典主义风格1789——1830

        这一时期古罗马、古希腊那种清晰简素的设讣开始复苏。服装表达了对更加白由的牛活方式的追求。英国风格的宽人拖尾长裙以轻柔的褶裥取代了以往的裙撑或臀垫。短夹克与裙子相配。长人衣前面有一部分裁掉,领型为小青果领。执政内阁府时期㈩现了薄布连衣裙。
    腰线上移至胸下。与抽褶人低领相呼应,腰线处也抽有碎褶。透明面料的裙子带有很多褶裥,或者无袖或者短袖,并有长长的裙裾。里面是简单的肉色针织直筒裙。华贵的羊绒披肩用于冷天或阴雨天。到帝政时期,高腰上衣部分开始与下面的裙子裁开,形成非常贴体的紧身衣。常常用镶有花边的高领来突㈩领部。袖子通常为泡泡或切U短袖。裙子渐渐变挺、变窄、变短。人革命时期的男装深色外衣领子高、尾部宽、袖子长而窄。此款逐渐演变成燕尾服,并成为小产阶级的主要服装。两排扣子可以系上,也可以敞开。高腰裤子裁得很瘦,通常采用针织面料。贴体短马甲通常与高领衬衫相配。领U配有人领巾或领结。

    Neoclassicism style

    The clear and simple design of ancient Greece and Rome were revived in this period.
    Clothing expressed a striving towards a new freer lifestyle. For the English fashion, the long wide skirt, fell in soft folds instead of a hoop skirt or a bustle was tied on. A short jacket was worn with the skirt. The long coat had the skirt cut away at the front. The neckline was covered with a small shawl. The light chemise appeared in the Directoire period. The waistline moved up to below the breast and was held, like the large neck- line, by a gathered seam. The transparent garment with many folds, either sleeveless or
    with short sleeves, had a long train. Underneath was simply a skin color knitted shift.
    Sumptuous cashmere shawls were draped around the body when it was cold or in bad weather. During the Empire period, the high bodice was separated from the skirt and was shaped into a corsage to fit the body very closely. The neckline was often empha- sized by a tall laced collar. The sleeves were usually short and were puffed or slashed.
    The skirt became stiffer, narrow and shorter. For men's clothing at the time of Revolu- tion, the dark frock coat was given a high collar, broad tails and long, narrow sleeves.
    It gradually developed into the tailcoat and became the main item of clothing for the bourgeoisie. The two rows of buttons were fastened, or it was worn open. The trousers were very narrow with a high waist, and knitted fabric was preferred. The close-fitted short waistcoat was often worn with a high collar shirt. Large stocks were worn loosely or knotted under the chin.