1930s style/20世纪30年代风格服装风格
8292 0 0 2008-01-10 20:19:20
20世纪30年代风格
这一时期的服装开始详尽细分，讲究女忭的衣橱会挂有适合各种不同场合的衣服，如在城里穿的、在郊外穿的、在鸡尾酒会穿的、非正式晚宴穿的、还有各种体育活动穿的。女裙采用垂感好的面料，长及小腿，突出腰线，臀部瘦窄，下摆展开。通过采用斜裁、悬垂、围裹，突出线条的精致。正式晚装领U开得很低，通常带有裙裾。外衣和人衣都细长贴体。腰线回到原来的位置，但还是保持白然线条，直到1937年冬，巴黎㈩现了新型的紧身胸衣。通过加负骨起到紧身的作用，塑造出收腰的新造型。这一时期㈩现的另一种变化是宽肩西服。袖子从羊腿袖变成了不同长度的瘦长的袖子。在袖窿处抽褶或捏褶裥，并加垫肩形成方肩造型。男装依旧，只是日装变得更加休闲。双排扣西服在白天特殊场合穿着。除了合体的软领人衣和直筒人衣外，还㈩现了双排扣人衣和风衣。
1930's style
By this period, clothing had become so thoroughly specialized that the wardrobe of a well-dressed woman contained costumes suitable for all occasions. There were clothes for town, for the country, for cocktail parties, for informal evenings, and for the various sports. Dresses were made of flowing fabrics, were calf length, accented at the waist, narrow at the hips and had a flared hem. Bias cuts, draping, and the wrap-over effect emphasized the elegant line. Formal evening dresses were Iow-cut and often had a train. Jackets and coats were also slim-fitting. The waistline settled back into its normal position, but the figure retained its natural lines till the winter of 1937, when Paris pre- sented the fashionable woman with a new corset. It confined the figure by means of extra bones, producing the required smaller waist of the new mode. Another change in the silhouette occurred in this period with the broad and exaggerated square shoulders of tailored clothes. Sleeves varied from the leg-of-mutton to the long, tight style and in all
lengths. They were shirred or pleated into the armscye and padded into the square ef- fect. Men's clothing remained conservative, although the everyday fashion became gradually more sporty and casual. The double breasted suit was popular for special occasions during the day. Beside the fitted Chesterfield and the straight great-coat, trench coats and raincoats were worn.
这一时期的服装开始详尽细分，讲究女忭的衣橱会挂有适合各种不同场合的衣服，如在城里穿的、在郊外穿的、在鸡尾酒会穿的、非正式晚宴穿的、还有各种体育活动穿的。女裙采用垂感好的面料，长及小腿，突出腰线，臀部瘦窄，下摆展开。通过采用斜裁、悬垂、围裹，突出线条的精致。正式晚装领U开得很低，通常带有裙裾。外衣和人衣都细长贴体。腰线回到原来的位置，但还是保持白然线条，直到1937年冬，巴黎㈩现了新型的紧身胸衣。通过加负骨起到紧身的作用，塑造出收腰的新造型。这一时期㈩现的另一种变化是宽肩西服。袖子从羊腿袖变成了不同长度的瘦长的袖子。在袖窿处抽褶或捏褶裥，并加垫肩形成方肩造型。男装依旧，只是日装变得更加休闲。双排扣西服在白天特殊场合穿着。除了合体的软领人衣和直筒人衣外，还㈩现了双排扣人衣和风衣。
1930's style
By this period, clothing had become so thoroughly specialized that the wardrobe of a well-dressed woman contained costumes suitable for all occasions. There were clothes for town, for the country, for cocktail parties, for informal evenings, and for the various sports. Dresses were made of flowing fabrics, were calf length, accented at the waist, narrow at the hips and had a flared hem. Bias cuts, draping, and the wrap-over effect emphasized the elegant line. Formal evening dresses were Iow-cut and often had a train. Jackets and coats were also slim-fitting. The waistline settled back into its normal position, but the figure retained its natural lines till the winter of 1937, when Paris pre- sented the fashionable woman with a new corset. It confined the figure by means of extra bones, producing the required smaller waist of the new mode. Another change in the silhouette occurred in this period with the broad and exaggerated square shoulders of tailored clothes. Sleeves varied from the leg-of-mutton to the long, tight style and in all
lengths. They were shirred or pleated into the armscye and padded into the square ef- fect. Men's clothing remained conservative, although the everyday fashion became gradually more sporty and casual. The double breasted suit was popular for special occasions during the day. Beside the fitted Chesterfield and the straight great-coat, trench coats and raincoats were worn.