浪漫主义风格
浪漫主义时期的风格是早期几人风格的混合体,尤其是文艺复兴、哥特及罗可可元素的复古。女装款式既符合浪漫主义的特点,又适合小产阶级牛活方式的需求。服装极富形象力且丰富多彩。在叼840年前后,极地长裙再次流行,只不过这次是采用马尾水支撑形状。起初下摆只是‘层荷叶边,渐渐地又加上很多缎带、蝴蝶结、刺绣、花边及人造花朵。1860年以后,裙子的前面变十,从膝盖处开始展开,在后面形成多层褶裥。强调上衣的分割线降至臀围。袖子依旧长而窄。最后外裙上提,折向后面裙撑,使后面蓬起。后裙撑处用滚条、镶边、蝴蝶结、荷叶边及镂空花边等材料强化装饰。与奢华的女装相比,男装相对精致,强调功能而不张扬。双排扣外衣开始用于日装,燕尾服用于晚装和上层人的外㈩服。叼860年前后㈩现了套装。裤子、外衣和马甲均采用同种颜色和同种面料。黑外衣配条纹裤只在特殊场合穿着。
衬衫经常带有刺绣。挺括的系扣领逐步取代了立领和翻卷领。颈饰取决于不同类型的外衣,可以是窄领带、宽领巾或领结。
Romanticism style( 1 850--1 890 )
Romanticism was a reworking and mixing of earlier styles, especially elements of the Renaissance, Gothic, and Rococo periods. Women's clothing was shaped according to the Romantic and suited the needs of the bourgeois lifestyle. It was highly imaginative and colorful. Around 1840 the floor length skirt returned, but this time stiffened around the circumference by horsehair. Originally, it had a single flounce at the hem, but
gradually it developed many ribbons, rows, embroidery, flounces and artificial flowers.
After 1860, the skirt was flattened at front, became wider at knee height and trailed at the back in many folds. The bodice emphasized the bodyline down to the hips. The sleeves were also long and tight. The over skirt was eventually lifted up and puffed out at the back over a frame. The bustle was extravagantly decorated with cords, braids, bows, flounces, and lace. In contrast to the lavish women's fashion, men's clothing was unobtrusively elegant and functional. The double-breasted frock coat became the day suit. The tailcoat served as a formal suit or upper class streetwear. The suit appeared around 1860. Trousers, jacket and waistcoat were all of the same color and material.
The black tailcoat, combined with striped trousers, was worn only for particular occa- sions. Shirts were often embroidered. Stand-up collars and turned down collars were gradually replaced by stiff buttoned on collars. Depending on the type of outfit, a narrow tie, a broad cravat or a neckband would be worn.