20世纪40年代风格

    第二次世界人战(1939-1945)期间物资短缺直接影响着服装业。  与其他很多日用品一样，服装也是限量供应。这样，服装的款式都变衍又短又小。女装裙子的褶裥数量受到限
制，袖子、领子和腰带的宽度也有相应的规定。刺绣、毛皮和皮革的装饰都受到禁止。  裙长及膝而且裁剪得很窄。  套装的设讣注重功能忭，并且适合各种场合穿着。  其款式常常与军
服相似，给人留下印象最深的是宽宽的垫肩和系得紧紧的腰带。  战后的第一年服装的外型轮廓没有太人变化。  而到叼947年，高级时装在巴黎复苏， 巴黎再度引领时尚的潮流。  经
历了多年的经济萧条之后，人们渴望穿上漂亮的服装，迪奥意识到了这一点。  他的发布引起的势不可挡的轰动程度，表明在迎合人们这种渴望方面是多么成功。随着充满女忭化的
“新式样”的推㈩，迪奥一举成为“时装之王”。这种款式的特点是：长及小腿，裙子下摆宽人，上衣肩部圆润，充分展现了女忭优美的形体。另外  ‘种年轻有活力的风格是优雅女忭化的
铅笔形细长风格，这种风格的特点是上衣部分紧身合体，裙子修长瘦窄。外套和人衣精制合体，或者后部弧形展开。男装变化很少，色彩和款型都保持传统风格。当时标准的男西服套装
是双排扣，这样可以不必穿西装马甲。

1 940's style

The scarcity of resources during the Second World War  (1939--1945) affected the fashion world. Clothing, like so many other commodities, was rationed and styles be- come shorter and tighter. The number of pleats in a woman's dress was restricted and the maximum with of the sleeve, collar, and belts prescribed. Embroidery, furs, and leather trims were all prohibited. Dresses and skirts covered the knee and were cut rel- atively narrow. Suits were designed to be practical for all occasions. They often re- sembled military uniforms, an impression reinforced by shoulder pads and tight belts. In the first years after the war, fashion silhouettes remained basically unchanged. Then In 1947, haute couture was revived in Paris and took up the fashion leadership once more.
After so many years of deprivation, people were hungry for pretty clothes' Dior recog- nized this and the overwhelming popularity of his first collection indicated how success- fully he stilled that hunger. He rose to be "fashion king" with his new, feminine fashion for women, known as the New Look. It brought calf-length, wide flares skirts and tops with rounded shoulders which flattered the figure. An alternative to this youthful, bouncy style was provided by the pencil line with its elegant, and feminine tightly fitted top and

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long, narrow skirts. Jackets and coats were tailored to fit the figure or had a flared back.
Men's fashion changed very little and remained conservative in colors and patterns. The standard suit was double breasted which made the waistcoat unnecessary.