新艺术风格(1890-1914)

    19世纪末20世纪初，科学技术的巨人进步影响到了人们的牛活方式。根据不同的穿着日的和穿着场合，可以选择适合的面料、色彩及式样。这‘时期的风格基木特点是体现白然的柔软、悬垂、线条和简单装饰，设讣款式与面料特忭相符。女装在面料、裁剪和修饰方面都很豪华奢侈。裙子流行修长轮廓，前面瘦窄，后面捏褶裥并形成拖尾。分片裁剪的喇叭裙开始㈩现。分片裙的臀围处贴体，在膝盖处展开并形成很多褶裥。衬裙和里裙均采用丝绸面料并带有荷-卜边，由此形成展开的喇叭形。上身领部通常是高领线和立领。叼900年前后，公主线裁剪方法开始流行，长长的袖子变得越来越瘦窄。通过勒紧上身形成紧身衣来突㈩胸部。从侧面看，整个身体呈现㈩S型。叼9叼4年前后，日装主要由带悬垂褶罩裙的直筒裙和短上衣构成。华美的晚装则多采用东方风格。男忭在工作和外㈩时穿适度合体的套装。晚宴服作为正装㈩现。从此燕尾服只有在非常隆重正式的场合才穿着。根据不同的套装，可以选择相应的人衣。除了精致的软领长人衣之外，流行的还有休闲的阿尔斯特宽人衣、舒适的插肩人衣和
短人衣。

Art nouveau style

The time before and after the century tremendous developments in science and tech-nology had their influence on lifestyles. The fabric, color and cut was now suited to its purpose and occasion. Basic characteristics of this style ware soft, flowing, lines, simple ornaments inspired from nature, and designs were suited to the materials.
Women's fashion was luxurious and extravagant with material, cut, and the finish.
Skirts with a slim silhouette were preferred. They were narrow at the front and trailed in folds at the back. The flared skirt, cut out of panels appeared. It was tight-fitting at the hips and flared out in many folds from the knee. Lining and underskirts, both silk and trimmed with flounces, gave fullness to the dress. The bodice was always high necked and had a high stand-up collar for daywear. Around 1900, the princess cut
came into fashion and the very long sleeves became narrower. Breasts were empha- sized by lacing the body into a corset. From the side , the body then resembled an S-shape. Around 1914, the straight skirt, often with a draped over skirt, combined with a short top dominated day wear. An oriental style was preferred for extravagant evening wear. Men wore the suit in a moderately fitted style. The dinner jacket ap- peared in formal evening dress and from then on, tails were not worn in the evening except for large, official occasions. The overcoat was chosen according to the suit.
Apart from the elegant Chesterfield, the casual Ulster, the comfortable Raglan and the short coat were favor.