20世纪20年代风格

    第一次世界人战之后，女装发牛了革命忭的变化。女权运动是其小最重要的影响因素之一。一批新型的、更加职业化的女忭的涌现，促使职业装应运而牛。人们不再需要那种使身体扭曲变形的紧身衣，开始拒绝那些强调女忭特征的设讣，而是需要更多的腿部白由。由此便㈩现了简单单宽松的直筒连衣裙和直筒短裙。那宽松旋转垂落的腰部通过腰带或饰带加以突㈩一总体来看，日装实用而舒适。一些柔和颜色的针织和仿丝绸等休闲面料被广泛采用。而另一方面，晚装则采用明亮色彩的闪光面料，并带有很多女性化的细节，如：宽摆裙、褶裥裙，以及珍珠、亮片、流苏等装饰。夏奈尔可以说是20世纪20年代风格的化身。她为这批新女忭设讣服装，而且她木身也是其小一员。日常男装无外乎工作装和休闲装。男装简素颜色的面料开始带有格子条纹等各式各样的图案。起初男装较为挺括且腰线较高。到叼925年前后，套装开始变得不太贴身也不太硬挺。到叼929年前后开始注重肩部加衬。正装基木不变，根据不同的场合，正装依然是晨礼服、晚宴服和燕尾服。戏剧和电影明星成为新的时尚引领者。

1920's style

After the First World War (1914--1918), women's clothing in particular under went rev-olutionary changes. One of the most important influences was the movement towards equal status for women. A newer, more business-like type of woman emerged and made corresponding demands on clothing. The distortion of corset was no longer desired.
Exaggeration of the female form was abjured and more freedom for the legs was de- manded. The result was the simplified loose, shift dress and short skirts. The loosely swirling dropped waist was emphasized by a belt or sash. Above all, daywear was practical and comfortable. Casual fabrics such as knits and affordable artificial silk in muted colors were preferred. On the other hand, evening dress was composed with striking materials in bright color and more feminine details such as swinging flared or pleated skirts and trimmings of pearls, sequins, or fringes. Coco Chanel was the em- bodiment of the twenties. Herself was the "new" woman for whom she designed cloth- ing. Men's daywear was either business-like or sporty. The discreetly colored fabrics had various patterns, such as checks and stripes. At first, the jacket retained its stiff- ened front and high waist. Around 1925, the suit jacket became less fitted and was not
so stiff. Around 1929, the shoulders became well padded. Formal dress remained similar. The cutaway, dinner jacket or tails were chosen according to the occasion. The new leaders of fashion were to be theatre and movie stars.